Autumn is that time of the year when, walking through the streets, you can smell countless different smells everywhere, wafting from the kitchens of the houses of the old town. If the smell of cinnamon and cloves and mulled wine are harbingers of winter, autumn with the smell of chestnuts is not only a winter overture, but a class of its own in the culinary realm of flavors and images. It's a time when the tables are full of goodies, and homemade strudel calls for researching old grandmother's recipes and looking for that little, mysterious, great thing that brings even distant moments from the past back.