The central square of Buenos Aires is the Plaza de Mayo, where protesters and mothers of those who disappeared during the period of the military dictatorship gather. Porteños, residents of the Argentine capital, proudly explain that the main avenue, Avenida 9 de Julio, is the widest street in the world.
South of the central square lies the oldest quarter of the city Monserrat and the further we go down Defensa Street, the narrower the streets become. Tango dancers and antique shops tell us that we are in San Thelmo, but if we go further south, we will reach Lezama Park, from where we enter an area of colorful wooden houses La Boca. Another part of the city that fascinates visitors is Palermo, where tourists are delighted with trendy bars, prestigious boutiques and excellent restaurants. One of the central tourist spots of Buenos Aires, or BA for short, is the cemetery. At the Cementerio de Recoleta next to the legendary one Eva Peron the deceased rest among greenery and surrounded by luxury residential buildings. On the shores of the Rio de la Plata, the widest river in the world, the abandoned harbor docks began to be renovated a few years ago, and today the area of Puerto Madero is developing into one of the city's most attractive neighborhoods. And when you are in the city that is the cradle of one of the most sensual dances, don't miss a tango performance. Once persecuted, but today adored, the dance has become a kind of anthem of the Porteños. Bar Sur or El Viejo Almacén offer tango evenings for large groups of tourists, in authentic milongihpas you can test your dancing skills yourself or learn the first dance steps. Lovers of serious classical art go to the beautiful Teatro Colón opera house, first opened in 1908.
For under the teeth
Traditional Argentinian cuisine used to boast only beef in huge quantities, and more cosmopolitan tastes had to settle for pizza or pasta mixed by Italian immigrants. In the last decade, Buenos Aires has also been dazzled by the exotic flavors of ethnically colored cuisines. Proof of this is the very popular sushi bars. Puerto Madero are renovated docks near the center that have become a paradise for businessmen who crave tasty and quickly prepared meals. In the evenings, younger people dine in the areas of Las Cañitas or Palermo Viejo, while more traditional restaurants are represented in Recoleta. Fans of Chinese cuisine prefer to go to the Chinese area around Arribeños Street in Belgrano. In colorful La Boca, the best lasagna is served at Materello. One of the most trendy restaurants in the Palermo area is Casa Cruz, which is so popular among the rich and beautiful Porteñas that it is difficult to find a free seat without prior notice. Their wine list is respectable, offering some of Argentina's best (and also most expensive) wines, such as Achával Ferrer. And another warning: Argentinians eat late, so anyone who likes early and light evening meals will be eating alone.
For spendthrifts
After the devaluation of the peso (Argentine's currency) in early 2002, the former most expensive city in South America became the cheapest. Although prices are on the rise, the city is still spendthrift friendly. As the style and taste of the city is largely European, exotic products are hard to find, but the local design and fashion industry is flourishing, as a walk through the Palermo Viejo area confirms. The meat industry contributed to the development of the leather industry, although most affordable outlets offer uninteresting designs and leather of questionable quality. Casa López is known for its beautiful leather gloves and belts. Lovers of antique shops wander around the San Telmo area, especially on Defensa Street. Most of the antiques were brought from Europe at the end of the 19th century. Especially at the weekend, the streets of San Thelma and the Dorrego square are full of antique sellers, tourists, street musicians and tango dancers. The main shopping street, where all the stores of famous names are crowded, is Calle Florida. One of the typical Argentine souvenirs is a pot or rather a preparation for drinking mate tea, which most Argentines depend on.
What's happening
The most important event that marks the end of February and the beginning of March (from February 23 to March 7) is the Tango Festival. Although it does not have a long tradition, it was first organized in 1999, today it gathers the most important names of tango and offers free performances by world-renowned dancers on stages all over the city. The organizer of the festival is the Argentine Ministry of Culture, which with this event has given Buenos Aires back the reputation and status it deserves as the birthplace of tango. In honor of the 110th anniversary of the National Museum of Art, the Museum in Images exhibition is on display until March 4. The photographic exhibition is a retrospective of its own history, focusing on the images of the museum, the stories of the leaders and the comparison with other South American cultural institutions.
Nightlife
Despite the economic problems, Buenos Aires remains one of the hottest cities on the South American cultural and clubbing scene. The fire at the República Cromañón club, which claimed 193 lives in December 2004, cast a dark shadow over clubbing in the city. After the unfortunate event, the city council closed all the clubs for about three months. Those that have reopened are safer, although enthusiasts claim that the scene is no longer the same as it was before the clubs closed. A serious night out in the city only starts after one in the morning, so we don't recommend morning activities the next day. During the week evenings, young officials gather in bars on San Martín and Reconquista streets. Irish pubs such as Kilkeny and Down Town Matias are particularly popular, as well as the charming French La Cigale. During the weekends, trendsetters gather in the areas of Palermo Viejo (mainly around Plaza Serrano) and Palermo Hollywood (named for the large number of television and film studios nearby). Most nocturnal birds flock to Báez, the central vein of Las Cañitas, after midnight.
Stay
A wave of foreign investment in recent years has also caused a boom in hotel accommodation. The high-end hotel hub is the renovated docks of Puerto Madero, where the Hilton caters primarily to businessmen, while nearby Faena and Madero offer a luxurious yet slightly more intimate home away from home. The most prestigious name among the hotels has the Alvear Palace, which was an apartment block of rich beef merchants, and today hosts the most famous visitors to the Argentine capital. In Palermo Vie, the rooms in the renovated 19th-century monastery, today's Malabia House Hotel, are particularly attractive. Another star among boutique hotels is the minimalisticly furnished LoiSuiteS Recoleta. But visitors with shallower pockets swear by the Broadway Allsuites, which are very trendy and also very affordable.
