Lavender is not just a plant that smells like a holiday, but a true green icon of the Mediterranean garden. It is elegant, unpretentious and incredibly grateful – but only if we treat it correctly. Among the most important tasks that determine its health and flowering is pruning. At first glance, it may seem simple – you take a pair of scissors and cut, but what could go wrong? Well, quite a lot actually. A wrong or sloppy cut can mean fewer flowers, more wood and an unattractive bush that resembles a forgotten hedge more than Provence. Let's take a look at how to prune lavender.
Why it's important to know how to prune lavender? If you've ever admired the beautifully shaped lavender bushes in botanical gardens or those perfect little gardens in the south of France, let us tell you a secret: they're all there precisely planned cuts, carried out at at the right time and in the right placeTo ensure your lavender blooms profusely next year – and not just survive – we've prepared a guide that reveals the tricks that every gardening chef knows.
When is the right time to prune lavender?
First of all, it is necessary to distinguish between two key pruning periods – summer and spring. Main pruning is taking place after the end of flowering, which usually means end of August to mid-September. At that time, the plant is still actively growing, so it can recover, harden off, and prepare for winter after the cut. If we postpone the cut to autumn or even winter, when the vegetation is already dormant, we risk damage and slow recovery.
Spring pruning is not necessary, but experienced gardeners often do it as a easy design correctionIn March or April, when there is no longer any danger of frost, any frozen, dry or irregularly growing shoots are removed to encourage harmonious growth. The key is: don't prune too late in the spring, because by doing this you are taking away energy from the lavender that it would otherwise invest in new growth.
How to prune lavender so that it blooms profusely again?
This is where precision comes in. Lavender is not a flower that you cut off its head without mercy. The cut must be considered, because lavender – and this is often overlooked – does not transfer cuts to wooden partsThe woody parts are those old, gray stems at the base of the plant, from which lavender usually grows. no longer produces new shootsIf you cut them off, there will be no life left there. As a result, the plant will be left bald, woody and… slightly depressed.
A correct cut means that remove the flower stalks a few centimeters below the ear, but still in the area where the stems are soft and green. As a rule, this means about a third of the total height of the plant, but you have to judge this visually – each lavender has its own character and growth. The goal is to shape it domed, symmetrical shape, which promotes internal growth and aeration, which is crucial for the health of the bush.
Design should be harmonious and even, don't leave long shoots on one side and short ones on the other – unless you're cultivating conceptual lavender art, which nature usually punishes with aesthetic chaos. There should be enough space in the middle of the bush for air to circulate and light to penetrate even the lower shoots.
What happens if we don't prune lavender?
Unpruned lavender loses its compactness over the years. The bush spreads out, the middle becomes wooden and empty, and the flowers are fewer and fewer every year. This is the plant's natural defense strategy, forcing it to woody as a form of survival. Unfortunately, this means the end of purple ecstasy and the beginning of the struggle for horticultural aesthetics. If your lavender is already quite woody, gradual rejuvenation pruning is possible - you remove some of the old wood every year, but only enough so that the plant can regenerate. Radical cuts should be your last resort - or an excuse to buy a new seedling.
Do we cut all types of lavender the same way?
Not quite. We grow it most often true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and lavender (Lavandula x intermedia)The first is slightly more delicate and smaller, while the second is more robust and larger – but also slightly less resistant to cold. The same rule applies to both: never in wood, always shape. Lavandin has longer stems, so we cut it a little lower to maintain compactness.
Fun fact: in Provence, lavender is often pruned by machine – which is practical but less precise. At home, however, you have the advantage: you can give your plant a little more attention. Almost therapeutic, to be honest.
What to do with cut flowers?
Don't throw them away! Lavender is practically comprehensive home pharmacyDried flowers are great for:
- scented bags for closets
- herbal teas (in small quantities)
- syrups, honey or cookies
- cosmetic preparations (baths, scrubs)
- decoration and homemade candles
So – every cut is not just an obligation, but an opportunity for a mini home wellness. And let's admit it: the feeling when you dry your lavender is almost poetic.
Conclusion:
Pruning lavender is one of those gardening tasks that is both an exact science and a pleasant meditation. If you prune it correctly, it will repay you with health, lushness, and a scent that will intoxicate even the most grumpy neighbor. Remember: never in wood, always after flowering, domed and with feelingAnd if you succeed this year, you're well on your way to making your yard smell better than ever next year – or as a French gardener would say: "Voilà, le parfum de la victoire!"
