Manaus – an urban jungle in the middle of the primeval forest

Huge profits brought to the city a foreign class called 'rubber barons'. Newcomers from England, France, Germany and Portugal took control of rubber extraction. Their number numbered a little over a hundred, and with the wealth that flowed into their accounts, they afforded themselves European luxury and comfort in a remote part of the world. Right Manaus was the first city in Brazil to get electric street lights, a telephone and paved roads, and today the biggest proof of the power of the rubber barons is the opera house. Teatro Amazonas was built in 1896, after fifteen years of painstakingly collecting the best materials imported from Europe. It is precisely because of the opera that the city earned the title of Paris of the Jungle. The wealthy also envisioned a market that was supposed to be a copy of the famous Les Halles in Paris, imported tons of the best iron and built the Mercado Adolfo Lisboa, and imported yellow stone from Scotland to build the Alfandega customs house on the waterfront. Today, the market is a place where we can observe unknown types of fish that fishermen bring every morning from the various rivers and canals of the Amazon, fruits whose names we have never heard before, and a wide variety of Indian medicines that, of course, cure any ailment. But the prosperity did not last long. Although it was forbidden to bring rubber tree seeds out of Brazil, which had a monopoly on rubber cultivation, in the early twentieth century, in a plot that could make for a great spy movie, Englishman Henry Wickham smuggled some precious seeds into London. Rubber was successfully transplanted to London's Kew Gardens, and from there it was planted in present-day Sri Lanka and Malaysia. Within two decades, the Brazilian monopoly was destroyed, and by 1923 most of the rubber barons had moved out of Manaus. The city sank into oblivion. Banks closed, harbor docks abandoned, splendid buildings began to fall into disrepair. Fortunately, the Brazilian government restored the most beautiful colonial buildings, and today the pastel-colored palaces are occupied by government employees instead of wealthy Europeans. Manaus is not only a witness to a brilliant past, but is also becoming more and more established as a starting point for exploring the Amazon basin. As an introduction to getting to know the Amazon, we must visit the National Institute for Amazonian Research (INPA), which also includes a botanical and zoological garden. For visitors who want to learn more about the history and way of life of the people of the Amazon basin, there are the Indian Museum, the Natural History Museum of the Amazon and the Port Museum, which shows the life of the English who built the port in 1904. But since not everyone likes museums, before wandering through the jungle for one or more days, you can take a dip in the Rio Negro, because 13 kilometers from the city center is the beautiful Ponta Negra beach, whose sand at low water level presents an attractive contrast to the dark water of the Black River. The best time to visit the beach is between September and November, and between December and February it is better to visit the Cascatinha do amor and Cachoeira do Taruma waterfalls. We will feel our first real contact with the mighty Amazon when we visit the 'meeting of the waters' (Encontro das Águas) about ten kilometers away. The place where the Rio Negro, the so-called Black River, due to its dark color flows into the lighter Solimões River (Amazon), is special because the waters of the two rivers do not mix, but flow for several kilometers without mixing.

For under the teeth
The rainforest that surrounds Manaus is also the source and inspiration for many of the local delicacies offered by the restaurants. Brazil is a paradise for lovers of freshly squeezed juices, but we will develop our imagination and tastes the most right in the heart of the Amazon. Roadside bars offer an incredible selection of juices whose names cannot be found anywhere else, and one of the special experiences of Manaus is certainly the anticipation of what kind of concoction the waiters will bring with our order. One of the most energetically refreshing drinks is called açaí. In Turiyá Amazônia, where you can also enjoy excellent tapioca, a kind of local omelette, they serve açaí that they make themselves. The tropical cuisine in Manaus is wonderful. Bistrô Ananã was opened last year. Owner Sofia used to "swim" in fashionable waters, and her creativity is also evident in the kitchen. Gazpacho with green açaí is just one of the surprises it offers. At Bernardin, we will be served exclusively with cod and an extensive wine list, which contains more than 200 names of wines, and the best meat, of course with an equally impressive wine list, can be snacked on in the Barbacoa restaurant. Choupana is the right address for lovers of tropical cuisine, with a wide variety of additions of local vegetables and spices, and is also famous for its excellent preparation of Amazonian fish. Since Manaus, like all of Brazil, is a big melting pot of cultures and races, the city has a lot of international restaurants. The best Italian pastas are served at Cantina Dom Domênico, while the Suzuran restaurant has more than 100 Japanese specialties on its menu, some of which have imaginatively added local flavors. But if we can't decide between the complicated names on the menu and the proven international classic cuisine, it will be best to visit the Village restaurant.

For spendthrifts
After the departure of the rubber barons, the Brazilian government tried to revive the city in the middle of the rainforest, so in 1967 the city became an economic free zone. Today, the streets of Manaus are lined with electronics and textile shops, and dealers who want to sell animal skins, protected animals and plants, miracle concoctions and other illegal products are standing in front of them. It will be best to look for souvenirs at the market, where you can find real valuables among tons of cheap Indian jewelry and clothes, all you need is a good knowledge of Brazilian precious and semi-precious stones. The largest shopping centers are Amazonas Shopping and Millenium Shopping, in their cool interior it is very pleasant to walk among the showcases of Brazilian and international fashion gurus and admire the skill of Brazilian goldsmiths. Two of the most well-known jewelry houses with headquarters in Rio de Janeiro and stores throughout the country are H. Stern and Amsterdam Sauer.

Nightlife
Let's start exploring the nightlife right in the square in front of the opera. Bar do Armando has one of the oldest traditions, as evidenced by its interior, although it is much more pleasant to sit outside in the evenings. We can continue the night at the All Night Pub, which has an interesting program of live music, and end it at the Porão do Alemão bar, where more than a thousand young people rock to the wild rhythms at the weekend, or at the Café Cancun, which also attracts young, eager wild parties.

Stay
The most luxurious address in Manaus is the Tropical Hotel with 600 rooms, a beautiful garden and even a small zoo, swimming pools and various possibilities for recreation. The entire complex occupies as much as 400 thousand square meters. Since most people don't visit Manaus for the city, but for the nature, it's worth driving 56 kilometers down the Rio Negro to visit the Ariau Tower Amazon Hotel wilderness hotel complex. The hotel, which is built at the confluence of the Ria Negro and the Ariau river, is a true architectural marvel, as it is built over the water, and the rooms, buildings, swimming pools, and restaurants are connected by more than 6 kilometers of paths.