Mostar - a city like no other

It survived for centuries until it was destroyed by the recent war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In November 1993, units of the Croatian army fired 86 grenades at it and the mighty stone mass thundered into the water. The event shocked the world not only because of the loss of priceless heritage, but because it was a death blow to a city of many different cultures, in which Serbs, Muslims and Croats lived in mutual coexistence for many decades. For several years, there was a gaping void in the middle of the devastated city, then they decided to rebuild the bridge. With a lot of effort, the experts succeeded in replicating the old construction techniques and in 2004 the bridge began to arch over the Neretva again. The new Stari Most, as the residents like to call it, is a perfect copy of the old one and is now included in the UNESCO World Heritage List with its surroundings as a symbol of reconciliation and hope for the peaceful coexistence of different cultural, ethnic and religious groups that were torn apart by the general war disaster. The famous bridge also has an older brother. A bridge called Kriva Čuprija stands on the Radobolja river, which flows into the Neretva not far from the Old Bridge. The stone bridge was built before 1558 and is the oldest preserved monument of the Turkish era in Mostar. It is said to have served as a prototype for the Stari most bridge, and the similarity between them is obvious, except that the Kriva Čuprija bridge is much smaller. A few years ago, it was washed away by a flood, but it was re-erected as an important monument of cultural heritage. While wandering around the beautiful old city center, which today has been completely renovated with the help of international funds, we will certainly cross the Stari most several times. During the summer months, you can admire some of the daring youngsters from Mostar as they prepare for a spectacular jump into the cold river. The jumper and his company put on a real show to collect enough monetary incentive from the crowd of onlookers, which amounts to about 25 euros. Only then is it time to jump... Two towers rise on each side of the bridge: Tara, a former powder storehouse on the left bank of the river, and Helebija, a watchtower on the right bank. Today, the Helebija tower has been converted into an interesting museum, which is worth a visit, dedicated to the Old Bridge and its story. Let's walk through Kujundžiluk, the bazaar on the left bank of the river, which is the most popular tourist spot with many shops and cafes. In the past, graceful houses of rich merchants and landowners, built in the recognizable Ottoman style, rose above the narrow streets of Old Mostar. Today, only a handful remain, and those that were not destroyed by the war are open to visitors. Among them, BišÄ?eviÄ?a Ä?ošak and Muslibegovićeva kuća stand out for their beauty and luxury. The latter is considered one of the most representative buildings of the Balkan-Ottoman style in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. On top of a steep cliff by the Neretva, not far from the bridge, the Koski Mehmed Pasha mosque dominates the surroundings. Built in 1617, it was damaged during the war, but now it has been renovated and is open to visitors. We can see the interior and climb its minaret. The view of old Mostar and the surrounding hills is unforgettable. Let's also visit the Kradžozbeg Mosque, built way back in 1557, the largest and most beautiful mosque from the time of the Turks on the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On the west side of the Neretva we will notice the bell tower of the Catholic cathedral, which is higher than the slender minarets of the surrounding mosques. The Croatian Franciscan Church, completely destroyed during the war and rebuilt, today boasts a bell tower so dramatically high that, looking at it, one involuntarily wonders if it might not be a pointless scramble for prestige in the field of religious and national identity, which is still as reflected in the view of this beautiful and unusual historical city.

For under the teeth
When we are in Bosnia and Herzegovina, we forget about pizza and spaghetti. Not because the chefs there do not know how to prepare them well, but because it is better to enjoy the full flavors of their traditional food, in fresh fruit and vegetables that are certainly not brought from the god of any greenhouse in the world, čevapčići, burek or meat on barbecue, as only they know how to prepare it. If we visit Mostar, we must try trout (trout) at least once and try one of the delicious Herzegovina wines from the vineyards along the Neretva, such as Žilavka, Kameno vino, Vranac, Blatina and others. The restaurant Hindin Han is famous for its excellently prepared food, where we will be impressed not only by the food, but also by the building itself, built in the old Ottoman style, with very beautiful interior decoration. Along the Radobolja river on the western side of Mostar, many mills once operated. Today, some have been converted into attractive restaurants offering all kinds of grilled meat, seafood and river fish. Just above Kriva Ćupria is Konoba Taurus. Its characteristic feature is an open hearth where the chefs prepare grilled dishes in front of the guests. For a pleasant atmosphere, book a table with a view of the river and order trout with potatoes. Fresh mussels can be enjoyed in the Starimlin restaurant.

For spendthrifts
The "shopping center" of the old town center with bars, restaurants and various shops is Kujundžiluk, an area where artisans used to make and sell gold, silver and copper products. It got its name from goldsmiths - Kojundžija. Even today, we can admire them at work and, of course, buy one of their creations: from accessories for making coffee or tea, plates, dishes, to interesting jewelry. We will also see imaginatively transformed and decorated casings, from grenades to bullets - a reminder of the dark times. Next to the mosque of Koski Mehmed Paša, there is a gallery and shop of oriental carpets, but if you want to buy local food from the surroundings of Mostar, visit the local market in the old part of the city. At the small but well-stocked market, you can buy fruits and vegetables, just picked from the local gardens, the special Herzegovinian sheep's cheese Torotan and, of course, the local brandy Lozovača. But in Mostar, not only what is old and traditional is good. In the recently opened business and shopping center Biosphere, you can let yourself be pampered in a completely European way. The Sky Lounge bar on the terrace with a modern design and a panoramic view of the city, which is open until midnight, the Oxyline beauty center and fashion stores take care of Mostar's step with the times.

Nightlife
Ali-Baba-Lounge in the old part of the city, also called Pećina, is a bar with an exotic atmosphere, where during the day you can cool off in a real cave under the rock, enjoy refreshing drinks and smoke Shisha. But at night, the music gets louder... Alternative culture and various art events live in the youth cultural center OKC Abašević. Otherwise, the most famous discotheques in the city are The Bridge discotheque in the southern part of Mostar and the Oxygen discotheque in the Biosphere center.

Stay
The city, which tourism helps to live, makes more and more hotels, motels and apartments available, but we can also rent a room from a family that earns extra bread by renting out rooms. Just a few minutes' walk from the old town, in the very center of Mostar, is the Hotel Bevanda, which recently earned a luxurious fifth star. The pink hotel with a somewhat surreal interior has a quality restaurant that offers both Bosnian and international dishes, mainly Mediterranean flavors, combined with a rich wine list of local wines. For those who want to fall asleep to the sound of the river's murmur, Motel Kriva Ćuprija will be the right choice. The former mill has been converted into a motel with two apartments, seven rooms and a restaurant. All rooms have terraces with a view of Radobolja and Stari Most, which is only about 100 meters away from the house. Anyone who likes to sleep a long time will surely be happy that breakfast is served only at 10 o'clock in the morning. Pampered guests can order a massage, room service up to 24 hours, and even a car with a driver. Pansion Rose, a completely renovated house, is located near Mostar's sights, along the road that leads from the sea to the city center. Pleasant rooms and friendly owners will enhance our stay in Mostar.

What's happening
Competitions in jumping from the bridge to the Neretva are more than four and a half centuries long tradition, today skilfully incorporated into the rapidly developing tourist industry in Mostar. The first jumpers plunged into a depth of more than 21 meters already in 1566, as soon as the bridge was built, and this custom has never died out. Every year at the end of July, Mostari Jumping Club organizes a competition called Ikari. The event is a media spectacle with the international participation of competitors and a real feast for the eyes, it is also accompanied by various cultural and entertainment events.