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Pizza Napoletana – Real Neapolitan pizza

Real Neapolitan pizza is simple and purist. Without ham, grated cheese, pepperoni and the like. Less is more. A dough made carefully and according to the rules. Tomato of the San Marzano type, which grows on the volcanic soil around Mount Vesuvius. Mozzarella made from buffalo milk, which is made in the regions south of Rome. A fresh basil leaf. All this makes up the pizza Napoletano.

The idea of fire-baked bread, which can be "nicely" spiced up a bit by adding something to it, goes back a long way in history. In the 16th century, a thin bread called "galette", which appeared in Naples, smelled a little like dough on pizza. It was sold on the street and was considered food for the poor. But he smelled just a little pizza, but not too much, since there was no basic ingredient – tomatoes. When it arrived in Europe in the 16th century, many people believed it to be a poisoned fruit. Slowly the myth was dispelled and the poor areas of Naples often added tomatoes to thin leavened bread. The dish soon became a popular and recognizable symbol of Naples.

Already around 1830, the first stalls on the street were offered to passers-by pizza and this tradition is still alive today. It is said to be the first Neapolitan pizzeria Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba, he is also still alive today. This is how the story of one of the most popular dishes in the world slowly took shape, which reached the pedestal in 1889, when during the visit of the Italian king and queen, Umberto I. and Margherita, the picopek (Italian: pizzaioli) Raffaele Esposito made a special effort. There are several versions of this story. Some say Raffaele created one as a tribute to the royal couple pizza, some argue that two. However, Marguerite of Savoy was the one who pleased her the most pizza in the colors of the Italian flag, with tomatoes, fresh basil leaves and mozzarella. That's why the famous pizzaioli named it "Pizza Margherita,” which is still considered one of the two (only two!) pizzas that deserve the name “Pizza Napoletana”. And that's only if the ingredients are right.

Be it strictly traditional or super innovative - the most important thing in pizza is the dough.
Be it strictly traditional or super innovative - at pizza is the most important dough.

San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella

The original Neapolitan pizza it has been part of the European culinary heritage since 2012, after more than twenty years of efforts, it was finally protected in the European Union in 2012. This also means that now the standards in restaurants where they offer "original Neapolitan pizzas", is checked by a special commission. There are a lot of fraudsters, even (or, if we are a little cynical - especially) among Italian pizzerias. Before they are pizza should protect around 25,000 pizzerias for their "original Neapolitan pizzas” used cheaper, lower quality ingredients. That you are pizza deserves the title Rushed, must be San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo milk mozzarella. San Marzano is an old type of tomato that thrives in the volcanic soil around Mount Vesuvius. This tomato is certainly the most famous and highly valued variety, it is elongated in appearance, has more seeds and a strong, sweet taste. Mozzarella is on Neapolitans from the milk of Italian buffalo that graze in the areas of Campania, Lazio, Apulia and Molise.

Modern pizzaioli play with combinations and appearance.
Modern pizzaioli play with combinations and appearance.

There are only two "real" pizzas

Some purists claim that there are only two in the world two "real" pizzas. She is the first Marguerite. And the second one is marinara. Margherita with basil, mozzarella and tomato. Marinara with tomato, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. Marinara is even older than margherita, and was prepared by fishermen's wives when they returned from fishing in the Bay of Naples. In Italy, La Marinara is a term for fishermen's wives, hence the name for it pizza. Especially in Naples, there are still corners where they only serve margherita or marinara. Such is the famous pizzeria Da Michele, which is considered to be the best pizzeria in the world. This is otherwise a rather ungrateful title, as purist authentic Neapolitan pizzas but it cannot be compared with the modern versions with a thousand and one additions. Anyway, Da Michele is located in the center of Naples, pizzas they have been baking since 1870, and from then until today the pizzeria has been in the hands of the Condurro family. Da Michele seems interesting and authentic just because of her philosophy. They serve two types pizzas, margherita and "Bianco" pizza. The atmosphere is simple, reservations are not accepted, and a large pizza costs five euros. And nothing more, even if Julia Roberts ate here in "Eat, Pray, Love" and even if they are known all over the world.

Pizza is no longer fast food, but is becoming a concept of haute cuisine.
Pizza it is no longer fast food, but is becoming a concept of haute cuisine.

Pizza - food of the poor and "haute cuisine" in one

Neapolitans are rightfully proud and protective of theirs pizzas. Maybe even too much, because at times they give the impression that nowhere else in Italy, let alone in the world, can they prepare such good pizzas. When the Italian gourmet bible Gamberro Rosso (comparable to Michelin stars on a global scale) chose I Tigli from Verona as the best pizzeria two years ago, it really raised the pressure with this Neapolitan. The move was described by Neapolitan pizzaioli as culinary racism and an insult to the city of Naples. They even organized protests and walked around the city with signs saying "Now they want to steal more from us pizza". On the other hand, top chefs in pizza they also see other challenges, not "just" how to improve the margarita. Pizza they are turning it from the food of the poor into haute cuisine.

What is the "real" Pizza Napoletana?

Associzione Verace Pizza Napoletana” is an association that was founded in 1984 and set very specific guidelines for authentic Neapolitan pizza. It strives to maintain standards at pizza, which today knows no borders and versions. Pizza it is baked in a brick oven, but it must lie on a stone base. Knead the dough only with your hands, pizza it is round and no larger than 35 centimeters in diameter and no thicker than 3 millimeters. The dough is made from flour, oil, yeast, salt and water. There is no sugar, so the dough rises more slowly. Traditional dough Waffled pizzas according to the rules, it is soft, elastic, manageable and free of any fat. During the manufacturing process, the dough first rests for two hours, then it is divided into small loaves, and rests for another four to six hours at a temperature of 25 degrees. Pizza baked for 60 to 90 seconds in a brick oven, on stone, at 485 degrees.

"La Marinare - fishermen's wives prepared marinara for their husbands when they returned from fishing in the Bay of Naples."

 

Pieces of kohlrabi and cabbage on pizza are something quite everyday at I Tigla.
Pieces of kohlrabi and cabbage on pizza in I Tigla, they are something quite everyday.

Pizza: the new wave

A time of crisis is also a time of opportunity and new ideas. That's what they wrote in the introduction to the Gambero Rosso association, whose mission is to hunt for Italian culinary highlights, among which I Tigli from Verona is always included. Two years ago, when the "northern" pizzeria was chosen as the best Italian pizzeria, the south got angry. While the Neapolitan pizzaioli protested, they even hoped to crown the I Tigli pizzeria the "mother of all pizzerias". If Da Michele in Naples is considered the best pizzeria for authentic Neapolitan pizza, I Tigli is at the very top in the world, where pizza looking for new spaces and forms of expression. Simone Padoan, the great "chef" there, is responsible for all of this. It is for him pizza, more precisely the rising of the dough, always in the center of attention. He gathered around him people who are passionate, researching and creative. Pizzas he started creating in the mid-nineties and has not stopped researching, discovering and improving to this day. He became the main "player" in the new wave pizzas.

Simone Padoan is a major player in the new wave of pizza.
Simone Padoan is the main player of the new wave pizzas.

His creation breathes tradition, the basil is (still) fresh, but at the same time he plays with accessories, not neglecting the visual aspect either. His plan is to elevate pizza a step higher, certainly far away from fast and unhealthy food. "We felt the need to re-wear what we have known for many years," says Simone about his creation of the new concept pizzas. It is traditional pizza with a modern touch, maybe we can even write with added value. This is based on raw ingredients of the highest quality, special cooking techniques, the flour is ground in a nearby stone mill, and the base is sourdough. And of course on combinations. The orange is kissed with shrimp, pomegranate seeds, pieces of kohlrabi and cabbage are walking between the triangles of the pizza. pizza but in I Tigla they are something quite everyday. And his favorite? Margherita pizza! Because it is still the best proof of a chef's skills.

"An orange is kissed with shrimp, pomegranate seeds are walking between the triangles of the pizza, and pieces of kohlrabi and cabbage on the pizza are something quite everyday in I Tigla."

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