The Freak X Crystalium combines Ulysse Nardin’s signature carrousel mechanism with a new “high-tech decoration”: crystallized ruthenium, which serves as the dial and hour hand. The result? Each piece is unique, with a case in black DLC-titanium (43 mm) and powered by the automatic UN-230. Limited to 50 pieces.
The clock that is called Freak X Crystalium, can afford a little madness. This time, Ulysse Nardin is experimenting not only with mechanics, but with a material it calls Crystalium. At the core is ruthenium—ten times rarer than platinum, according to the brand—which is “grown” into a fractal, icy texture in a special vapor deposition process. This is the basis for the dial and also the hour disc, which rotates every 12 hours. Premiere? Geneva Watch Days 2025. Limit? 50 pieces. Collector’s radar: on.
Crystalium: When Science Plays with Ice
Crystalium is made from ruthenium, a platinum group metal. It undergoes a multi-day, controlled vapor deposition process that crystallizes—much like the way glass is etched, except in a vacuum chamber. Each piece develops a unique, fractal pattern that cannot be duplicated. The surface is then treated with a warm rose-gold PVD coating and hand-shaded with black lacquer for contrast and dramatic play of light. Some sources describe the process as PVD, others as CVD; the common denominator is slow crystal growth on a ruthenium plate.
Freak X basics: bridge as minute hand, disc as hour hand
Like other Freak X models, the Crystalium displays the minutes with a mechanism bridge that rotates once an hour around its axis—the bridge is therefore the minute hand. Underneath it rotates a Crystalium plate that acts as a 12-hour clock disc. The entire thing is powered by the automatic caliber UN-230 with a frequency of 3 Hz and a 72-hour power reserve; the balance, spring and escapement levers are made of silicon and developed by the SIGATEC laboratory.
Mechanics, no myths: what is (and what is not) in UN-230
The UN-230 is a “simplified” Freak design: it is based on the UN-118 architecture and uses an efficient automatic winding system (in the “Magic Lever” style), rather than the more exotic Grinder found in other Freak references. This is one of the reasons why the Freak X is wearable and more “down to earth” in terms of service, while still retaining the carousel spectacle on the dial.
Housing, dimensions and ergonomics
The case is made entirely of black DLC-coated titanium and measures 43 mm. It is approximately 13.7 mm thick, 49.1 mm lug-to-lug, and water-resistant to 50 m. The contrast between the dark case and the warm, crystalline “landscape” on the dial is intentional: the material should play a leading role. Two straps are available—textured black rubber “ballistic” or black alligator—both with black ceramic and DLC-titanium buckles.
Price, references and limitations
The model is limited to 50 pieces. The recommended retail price is according to sources 42,200 USD; in Europe 40,000 CHF / 42,700 EUR / 37,130 GBP (including taxes), in Australia 74,900 AUD. Available references 2303‑270‑4A/3A (rubber) and 2303‑270‑4A/1A (leather). As always: the final retail price depends on the market and tax treatment.
What is this even for? (Hint: materials art)
Freak has been a platform for innovation since 2001—from silicon to crazy carousels. Crystalium extends this tradition into the direction of “high-tech decoration.” It’s not a functional part of the escapement; it’s an aesthetic, made with an engineering process that the brand describes as the most advanced decorative process they’ve ever used. That’s why the series is small. And yes, ruthenium is said to be about ten times rarer than platinum, according to the brand, which fits nicely with the narrative of rarity and exclusivity.
The Genesis of Crystalium: A Prelude in Purple
If the name Crystalium sounds familiar: Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak S “Watches of Switzerland” last year with a purple Crystalium background. The new Freak X Crystalium continues this line, but in a more “accessible” X-architecture and with a rose-gold tone, not a purple one.
Specifications Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium
- Diameter: 43 mm (black DLC titanium), approximately 13.7 mm thick; lug-to-lug 49.1 mm; water resistance 50 m.
- Dial material / watch disc: Crystalium (crystallized ruthenium), rose gold PVD + hand-painted black shading.
- Time display: minute bridge (1 rev/h); hourly Crystalium disc (1 rev/12 h).
- Mechanism: UN‑230, automatic, 3 Hz, 72 h power reserve; silicon in balance, spring and escapement; ~214 parts, 21 jewels; development by SIGATEC.
- Strap: black textured rubber or black alligator; buckle in black ceramic and DLC-titanium.
- References: 2303‑270‑4A/3A (rubber), 2303‑270‑4A/1A (leather).
- Limitation: 50 pieces.
- Price: USD 42,200 / CHF 40,000 / EUR 42,700 / GBP 37,130 / AUD 74,900 (market/taxation varies).
Verdict: Freak who teaches the dial new tricks
Freak X Crystalium is a manifesto: how to use the laboratory to create something emotionally powerful. If you're interested in mechanical poetry but aren't ready for the logistics and price of the "big" Freaks, this is a reference that preserves the spirit of the model—without the tourbillon acrobatics and with a strong emphasis on the material. Expect some healthy confusion, too: the watch is difficult to photograph, but in person the Crystalium really "comes to life."
Geneva Watch Days 2025 brought its fair share of surprises, but it’s rare that material science becomes the main story. Here it is. If Crystalium becomes the new mini-family of aesthetics within Freak, a year from now we might be talking about colors and grain the way we talk about enamels and aventurines today.
