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Doxa SUB 200 with steel bezel: When a diving legend puts on a tuxedo and shines brighter than Seiko, Longines or Baltic

A new face of an iconic watch for people who appreciate elegance… even underwater.

Doxa SUB 200
Photo: Doxa

If Jacques Cousteau were wearing the Doxa SUB 200 today, he would probably show it off in a Zoom meeting.

Ah, Doxa. A brand loved by divers, collectors and those who have been saying for years that they “really don’t need to buy another watch anymore”. Doxa is one of the few Swiss brands that dares to use color. Real colors – orange, turquoise, green – of course in the Doxa SUB 200 model. No minimalist, Scandinavian gloom. Just pure, unadulterated diving energy.

And now? Now the Doxa SUB 200 – the more affordable model in their collection – has a new steel bezel. No more “sapphire inlay” stuff, but nice, shiny polished steel. And, honestly, it looks like Doxa is finally going to dinner with a tie.

Photo: Doxa

Why is this important? (And why do you even care?)

While the world of watchmaking can sometimes feel like one big Swiss Game of Thrones, where hands move in micrometers, such changes are actually a big deal. The Doxa SUB 200 has always been in the shadow of its bigger brother, the iconic SUB 300 worn by Cousteau. But now, with a steel bezel, the little brother is getting its moment of glory – more elegant, more wearable, and above all, more suitable for those who want a diver’s watch but still spend 90 % of their time above the surface.

Doxa SUB 200
Photo: Doxa
Photo: Doxa

Doxa SUB 200: new bezel, good old character

42mm steel, 200m water resistance, sapphire crystal, Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement (read: reliable as a Swiss railway). Everything else remains the same. Only the bezel is now shiny, shiny and a bit more “James Bond goes to brunch” than “Indiana Jones seeks treasure under the sea”.

Available in eight color combinations, each more “look at me” than the last. The green Sea Emerald is a real eye-catcher, especially with its NATO strap. If you like more classic colors, there’s the Sharkhunter (black) or the Searambler (silver), which with this bezel looks almost… prestigious? Yes, I said prestigious and Doxa in the same sentence.

Straps that are no joke

Beads-of-rice bracelet? Swiss designer answer to the question “how should steel be comfortable?” And rubber FKM straps in the colors of the dials? A match that would impress even a fashion consultant. And it also has a stretchable extension for a diving suit – so, function + form = victory. Because the Doxa SUB 200 can

Photo: Doxa

Where does it rank in the tough competition?! Doxa SUB 200

Although the Doxa SUB 200 shines as a star in its own right with its new steel bezel, comparisons cannot be avoided with other watches in a similar price and style class. The Seiko SPB143 offers the same level of robustness with a slightly more subdued, Japanese elegance. The Longines HydroConquest adds a touch of luxury with higher water resistance and a traditional aesthetic. On the other hand, the Squale 1521 and Baltic Aquascaphe play on similar retro notes, each with its own interpretation of vintage diving spirit. And if you want the most technical specifications for your money, the Tissot Seastar 1000 with its 80-hour power reserve will also leave you without excuses. But none of these competitors offer such an iconic character, such bold colors and such a balanced combination of tools and style as the Doxa. So the SUB 200 is not only an interesting choice, but also a bold statement for everyday wear – with a touch of oceanic myth.

Photo: Doxa
Photo: Doxa

What about the price? Accessible to everyone – which has a special charm!

The price range remains reasonable – from 850 € (920 $) for the most basic version (Sea Emerald on a NATO strap), up to 1.010 € (1,090 $) for the model with a steel bracelet. The middle option, with a rubber strap, will cost you 975 € (1,050 $). For a Swiss watch with soul, history and now also with a sparkling bezel, It's no longer "how much?" but "where do I sign?""


Conclusion: Doxa has finally grown up (but hasn't lost her sense of fun)

This Doxa SUB 200 is like that friend who finally started wearing a jacket over a gangsta T-shirt – a little more dressed up, but still ready for adventure. If you’ve been waiting for a Doxa that will accompany you from the dive boat to your evening wine by the sea, you’ve just found it.

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