Sculptor of fabric

What does fashion mean to you? Do you ever get carried away by this fairy tale? I don't have a special relationship with fashion, at least fashion in the sense of fast-changing trends, because I don't equate design with trends. ...

What does fashion mean to you? Do you ever get carried away by this fairy tale?

I don't have a special relationship with fashion, at least fashion in the sense of fast-changing trends, because I don't equate design with trends. High fashion is something else entirely. Fashion designers who created certain excesses and are still doing it, for example, McQueen, Yamamoto and some others, just inspire respect. Their solutions spark new ideas in others, including me. Most of these designers do not bother with trends when designing a product, but with their own ideas. They design a piece of clothing based on a story, an emotional moment, their own experiences and vision. Of course, it happens that I include in my own collection some elements that are in fashion at that moment, but this is spontaneous and unencumbered, just a matter of my design style.


Runways, fashion shows, city centers; are these places where fashion is made?

Fashion and fashion trends are influenced by many elements, which means that it is not created in a specific place, but it is still extracted into the world through the big names of the fashion industry. From here it is transferred to the world. Interesting is the phenomenon of stores such as Zara, Topshop, H & M and similar brands, which create collections by observing in certain city centers what has been transferred from high fashion to the streets. Through this, they create clothes that are most likely to become a trend.


Many of the pieces of clothing you've designed are hard to imagine being worn in everyday life, but they work great on the catwalk. Is unwearability the point of fashion shows?

When I design clothes without the constraints of the client, I imagine the dress as a kind of sculpture on the female body. I think like a sculptor. As a result, I do not concern myself with the thought of what occasion it is suitable for. This is where fashion approaches art, and the point of magazines is precisely this: creativity and expression. But if I'm thinking more market-wise about how to sell a certain piece, I have to balance my creativity with practicality, but that doesn't mean that I lose my expression.


Fashion shows don't just consist of clothes. The image of the mannequins representing the collection is at least made up of the choice of footwear, hairstyle and make-up. How much do you interfere with someone else's magazine in your own magazine?

At the principle level, the person who presents his work "controls" the entire image. If it's a hair magazine, the dress adapts to the hairstyles, if it's fashion, the dress is in the foreground. It's a matter of communication. When three creators and two jewelry designers were preparing the magazine with KUD Trajna, we decided on a basic idea within which everyone tried to show their own creativity. Hairdressers Urša Kolbe and Kristina Kralj and Tinka make-up artist Pobalinka also adapted to this.


Starting this season, the hostesses of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater welcome us in jackets designed by Damir Raković. How much fashion enters theater and how much theater enters fashion?

The two worlds intertwine to a certain extent. Many a fashion designer struggles with costume design in his career, but fashion shows, on the other hand, are no stranger to theatrics. It also depends on which fashion name stands behind a certain magazine and how much theatricality it conveys around itself. Designing uniforms for puppet theater hostesses is something else, as the client narrows the room for maneuver with certain requirements. Damir and I had to take into account the colors that appear in the theater and the fact that the performances are mostly attended by children and young people. The combination of classic uniform and children's playfulness was created.


At the final NTF fashion show, your creations emphasized feminine elegance and extravagance. You acted similarly when you created a costume for a transvestite or transvestite show?

Definitely. Since the costumes for transvestite performances are derived from women's cuts, but are worn by men, it is necessary to pay even more attention to certain details when making them. The most important thing is to extract from the male body what is already naturally given to most women. It is interesting to watch a trans performance, because some transvestites are much more graceful in their disguise on stage than most women.


Are your wishes for the future similar to the wishes of other young designers?

Probably. The first priority is, of course, the best possible presentation of my works to the Slovenian public, and I hope to break through with my own brand as soon as possible.


Info Box

Erna Ostanek

"I don't have a particular attitude towards fashion."

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