Ah, Sorrento – here I am now, in this October time of 2025, as autumn slowly turns to winter, and I say to myself: “Why would I ever go home?” It’s not just another seaside village in southern Italy; it’s like an old love that surprises you with a new trick, now without the summer madness. I came for the view of Vesuvius, and I’ll leave with the taste of lemons and memories that smell of salt. If you’re looking for a place where time moves slowly but the heart beats faster – especially now, when the crowds are bearable and the weather is still lovely – you’ve found the right one.
The first step in Sorrento and the scent already surrounds you – not the artificial one, from a bottle, but genuine, as if the lemons themselves had decided to be the perfume of the city, even now that the leaves are turning yellow. These local lemons, protected by the IGP label, grow in groves under traditional umbrellas called pagliarelle, and give the peel the aroma that you feel in every drop of limoncello. Have I tried to make my own at home? Unsuccessfully, of course – without the Sorrentine sun, it’s just sour water. The city lives off these citrus fruits; they are used to make liqueurs, desserts and even cosmetics. And if you walk along Via San Cesareo, you will find delicatessens where the owners teach you how to distinguish the real thing from the fake – now, in autumn, without the queues.
Cliffs that whisper tales of mermaids and ancient sailors – in the peace of the autumn wind
I stand in Piazza Tasso, the heart of the city, where the streets meet like old friends, and look down towards the sea, while the autumn wind carries the scent of the sea. Sorrento hanging on the cliffs above the Bay of Naples, with views of the mighty Vesuvius and the dreamlike island of Capri – now even more peaceful, without the summer crowds. These cliffs are not just a backdrop; they are part of the story. Legends say that sirens lived here, those mythological seductresses who lured sailors – hence the ancient name Surrentum. The history? As rich as an Italian dinner: from the Greeks and Romans in the 8th century BC, through the Byzantine and Norman rulers, to the Ottoman siege of 1558. Today you wander through the narrow old town, past the 11th-century Cathedral of St. Philip and St. James, and feel these layers of time beneath your feet. Have I gotten lost in the alleys? Several times, and each time I found a better café – and now with free tables.
Secrets between the emerald sea and overgrown ruins – ideal for autumn exploration
If you want to escape the crowds – which are now minimal anyway – take a walk to the Bagni della Regina Giovanna: a natural pool set among the ruins of the Roman villa Pollia Felice, where emerald water plays with the rocks. This is not a beach with sun loungers; it is raw, romantic and accessible on foot, so wear good shoes – the autumn weather is perfect for such a walk. Or visit the Vallone dei Mulini, the valley of the mills just outside the centre: a deep ravine with moss-covered ruins of old mills, taken over by nature after a volcanic eruption centuries ago. Photogenic without filters, believe me. For a cultural treat, the Museo Correale di Terranova is in a villa with a park: porcelain, paintings and archaeological finds that take you back in time. Did I spend an afternoon there? Yes, and came away wiser – or at least more impressed with the old vases as the sun shines softly through the autumn leaves.
Flavors that linger on the tongue longer than sunset – even sweeter in the autumnal peace
Culinary in Sorrento is simple but unforgettable: fresh fish from Marina Grande, fishing villages under the cliffs, pasta alla sorrentina with mozzarella and basil, and of course delizia al limone for a sweet finish. Limoncello? Don't drink it as a juice – it's a digestif that warms you up after a hearty dinner, and now even more enjoyable on colder evenings. Did I have too much of it? Maybe, but no regrets. The beaches are mostly rocky slabs or pontoons; for sand, head down to Marina Grande, where locals still fish – and in autumn the water is still warm enough for swimming. And if you're up for an excursion: the ferry to Capri for the Blue Grotto, or the train to Pompeii – everything is within easy reach, without the summer queues.
Sorrento as an ideal starting point for exploring the Amalfi Coast – without the rush and crowds
Sorrento It’s not just beautiful in its own right; it’s a transport hub, making it an ideal base for exploring the Amalfi Coast – especially now, in autumn, when the roads are less congested and the views even more crystal clear. From here, you can hop on a SITA bus that will take you to Positano or Amalfi in an hour and a half, along that famous winding road where cliffs drop into the sea like something out of a movie – but without the summer crowds that make it unbearable. A faster option? The ferry from Marina Piccola port, which will get you to Amalfi in 40 minutes, with the wind in your hair and breathtaking views of the coast. Sorrento is more easily reached from Naples by the Circumvesuviana train, meaning you can combine the coast with trips to Pompeii or Capri, all without changing base. Hotels and restaurants here are cheaper out of season, and the crowds are bearable – ideal for those who want to explore Positano, Ravello or Amalfi in peace and quiet, without feeling like you’re in a line for an ice cream.
How to find your way without a map and without rushing – even easier in autumn
You arrive from Naples airport (Capodichino), about an hour away – take the Circumvesuviano train or bus, which takes you straight to the center. The city is walkable, but steep; for longer distances, take the ferry or Sita bus to Amalfi. The best time? This autumn – September to November, when temperatures still reach 20 °C, crowds are minimal, and the weather is still good enough for walks and excursions. In winter, from December to March, it is quieter, but colder, with occasional rain – ideal for those looking for an authentic Italian atmosphere without tourists. Came here now, in October? Yes, and survived – with a good gelato in hand, while the sun still warms the cliffs.
Why I keep returning to Sorrento, even though I know it will be just as magical – especially in the fall
Sorrento it is not for those in a hurry; it is for those who want to stop time – and now, in the autumn of 2025, when the leaves are changing and the crowds are disappearing, it is even easier. It combines spectacular views with an intimate atmosphere – it is not mass tourism, but a personal experience, where the cliffs remind you of the transience, the lemons of the sweetness of life, and Vesuvius that beauty carries risks. It is the ideal entry into Campania, but magical enough to stay here alone – especially now, when the weather is still friendly, temperatures around 18-22 °C, and you can enjoy limoncello on the terrace without queues. If you are a romantic spirit, a foodie or just tired of everyday life, it will embrace you – without the summer madness, with the autumn peace that turns into winter silence.
