After nearly a decade of challenges and breakthroughs, TAG Heuer has succeeded in industrializing a carbon hairspring that promises greater resistance to shocks, magnetism and temperature changes. This innovation debuts in limited edition Carrera and Monaco models that combine cutting-edge technology with iconic design.
Wait, do we really need another “revolution” in watchmaking? Well, if it’s about TAG Heuer, which after nine years of painstaking development has finally mastered the carbon hairspring – called the TH-Carbonspring – then maybe it really is. Imagine: a small but crucial part of a mechanical watch that is lighter than a pen, as resistant to magnets as a superhero, and as unbreakable as your favorite coffee mug after falling off a table. This is not just a technical achievement; it’s as if watchmakers were saying to silicon, “Thanks for everything, but now we have something better.”
Carbon beats silicon on its own turf
Silicon has long been the star of hairsprings – resistant to magnetism, lightweight and precise. But it has one major drawback: brittleness. Under impacts of over 5,000 g, it breaks like a dry branch. TAG Heuer’s carbon hairspring overcomes this with its exceptional shock-absorbing ability, while maintaining a lightness that improves chronometric performance.
How did they achieve this? With a chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process, where carbon nanotubes are grown at temperatures between 600 and 850 degrees Celsius. And here's the trick: They grow the reel directly during production, eliminating traditional assembly errors. It took them nine years to perfect it—enough time to build a small bridge or two in the meantime.
Interestingly, TAG Heuer has completely bypassed patented silicon technology, which is often limited by supply chains and licensing costs. Instead, they have developed four of their own patents, covering everything from the growth process to the integration of the wafer. This means independence and the potential for wider use in their own production – ironic, isn’t it? While others pay for licenses, TAG Heuer writes its own rules.
Two iconic models get the carbon treatment
For the debut of the TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer chose its most iconic models: the Monaco and the Carrera. As if to say: “If we’re going to change the game, let’s change it with the stars.”
The Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring has a 39mm forged carbon case powered by the TH20-60 movement, which offers a flyback function and an 80-hour power reserve. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring, meanwhile, stretches to 44mm with the TH20-61 movement, which adds a flying tourbillon and a 65-hour power reserve.
Both models are made entirely of carbon, from the case to the pushers and crown. The result? A look reminiscent of a stealth bomber, with swirling carbon dials that echo the geometry of the hairspring. Black and gold hands with white Super-LumiNova provide a sharp contrast, while matching rubber straps with DLC titanium buckles complete the look.
Despite the space technology, both retain 100-meter water resistance and COSC certification – proof that innovation doesn’t mean sacrificing basic reliability. Who would have thought that carbon could make a watch so robust yet elegant?
Technical specifications at a glance
- Model: Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
Case size: 39 mm
Housing material: Forged carbon
Movement: In-house TH20-60 automatic flyback chronograph
Power reserve: 80 hours
Water resistance: 100 m
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: $17,900 / comparable euros - Model: Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
Case size: 44 mm
Case material: Forged carbon with tachymeter bezel
Movement: In-house TH20-61 automatic tourbillon chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Water resistance: 100 m
Limited edition: 50 pieces
Price: $42,100 / comparable euros
Prices and availability
The Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring will be available from December 2025 for $17,900, while the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring will follow in the first quarter of 2026 for $42,100. Limited editions of 50 pieces mean they’ll go fast – like a race car on a flat track.
Conclusion: The Future of Watchmaking in Carbon
TAG Heuer’s TH-Carbonspring isn’t just a technical trick; it’s a step forward in mechanical watchmaking that overcomes the limitations of traditional materials (the hairspring). Debuting in the Monaco and Carrera models, it shows that innovation and tradition can coexist – with a little carbon and a lot of imagination. If you’re a watch lover who wants something that’s both classic and futuristic, this could be your next piece. But hurry before it goes mainstream.
