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Tbilisi - Behind the silk curtain

The capital of Georgia, with a population of 1.3 million, is one of the oldest cities in Transcaucasia. The old part of the city, called Kala, developed under the fortress and extended to the Mktvari River. It is best to start exploring the old part of the city at the Metekhi church, where the history of the city also began.

During the time of Tsarist Russia, a prison was built there, in which many Georgian and Russian revolutionaries were imprisoned, including Maxim Gorky. Some of the most charming winding streets in Old Tbilisi are Leselidze and Sioni Streets, where with a little imagination you can still conjure up the pulse of the spice and silk trading part of the city. Under the fortress of Narikala, which reigns over the old city, another specialty of Tbilisi is hidden - sulfur baths. The water, rich in hydrogen sulphide, has healing effects here that have been known for centuries; according to legend, it is because of them that the founder of the city of Vakhtang Gorgasali decided to move the seat of the state to this part. Tbili means warm in the Georgian language. Observing the pulse of a modern city, still caught in the throes of transition from the old system, begins at Freedom Square, continues with a stroll along Rustavelis Gamziri's main shopping street, and ends at Republic Square, an ill-fated architectural experiment from the 1980s. The main "sight" is the huge arches, which do not really represent anything, they were only given a funny nickname: Andropov's ears (Yuri Andropov was the Soviet president between 1982 and 1984). Opposite is the Iveria Hotel, once one of the best hotels in the city, which until the summer of 2004 was home to reluctant refugees from Abkhazia. better days.

FOR UNDER THE TEETH
Proof that Georgians are famous for their immense hospitality greets visitors as soon as they enter the city. On the ridge of the Sololaki hill stands a huge statue of the Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda), holding a glass of wine with which she greets friends in one hand, and a sword with which she drives away enemies in the other. Therefore, we should not be too surprised if the locals invite us to their otherwise modestly decorated apartments and put everything they have in the refrigerator in front of us. Of course, because they have a saying that even if an enemy kills their son, they must feast on him. The most common "fast" food on the plates of Georgians is kachapuri, a kind of pizza stuffed only with sheep's cheese. When asked which is the best restaurant in the city, residents usually point to Tsisqvili (Mill), which is one of the few that can boast not only excellent food but also attentive service. In the Tamada restaurant, in addition to excellent Georgian food, we will also be impressed by the interior. Lovers of jazz music can listen to their favorite genre of music in the Kala restaurant. Most of the restaurants in the city will be found in the vicinity of Akhvlediani Street, which was called Perovskaya in the old Soviet times. The street lies between two city attractions, the Philharmonic and Republic Square. With Georgian, Eastern and European cuisine, the Marco Polo restaurant, which also offers quality vegetarian dishes, will take us along the Silk Road during the trading season.

FOR SPENDERS
Although in recent years the streets of Tbilisi, especially Chavchavadze Street, have been flooded with boutiques offering products by renowned fashion designers and elegant stores with salted luxury products, most of the local residents still do their daily shopping in the markets, where they buy clothes of the same brands for little money , but of unknown origin. Donna Karan, Dolce and Gabanna, Versace and the rest will welcome us at the market near Tsereteli Street, but we don't bother with the quality of the clothes. Adventurers or shopaholics should head to the outskirts of Tbilisi for the huge Lilo Market, where they sell everything… and nothing. Pirate movies and music, technology of dubious origin, the latest antiques and, of course, ready-to-wear fashion will accompany us on a walk through the often muddy passages between shops and stalls. We just make sure that we don't leave the venue empty-handed because of the pickpockets who, like the spendthrifts, work at the market.

WHAT'S HAPPENING
During the winter months, Tbilisi also takes on a festive look. Concerts, parties and receptions line up on a conveyor belt, but winter in Georgia is becoming interesting especially for skiing fans. Tbilisi is not exactly the dream of dedicated skiers, but it is the starting point from which skiers go to Gudaura, high in the Caucasus, where in recent years mainly foreign agencies have updated hotels and invite adventurers to excellent heliskiing. A helicopter ride up to a height of 4,200 meters and a descent down pristine white slopes are the dreams of many skiers, which can be realized in Gudauri at affordable prices.

NIGHT LIFE
Before a long night, we must treat ourselves to a glass of Georgian cognac. The brand that "burns" is cognac Saradjišvili. If spirits do not tempt us, we will almost certainly not be able to resist Georgian wines, because among the five hundred and twenty one types of wine we will certainly find the taste, aroma and color that will suit us. For sworn non-alcoholics, only a cup of Georgian black tea remains. Part of the transition process in Georgia is also reflected in the nightlife. Recently, clubs and elegant bars with chill-out music have sprung up in Tbilisi, among which Switch Club is the brightest example, offering excellent entertainment and professional service. The night office is open at the weekend and is known as the most exclusive club, where they play the best trance, dance and club music. It is equipped with ultra-modern laser lighting and three bars, which ensure that the approximately one thousand visitors, as many as the club can accommodate, are never thirsty. In the Two-Side club, young people mainly enjoy house and techno music, and the interior, consisting of two parts, can host several hundred people who want to have fun. The restaurant offers Georgian and "Western" food to the hungry at any hour.

LIVING
The best hotels in the city are Sheraton Metechi Palace and Hotel Villa Berika. Sheraton is a hotel for strict businessmen. Similar hotels can be found all over the world. Apart from the high prices (about two hundred dollars per night), Villa Barika also charms with its pleasant atmosphere. Among the mid-range hotels, Kala and Old Tbilisi hotels should be mentioned, both of which are perfectly located in the old city center. Kala is a small hotel with 14 rooms, and prices are around US$60. Old Tbilisi is more expensive ($95 per night), but worth a visit mainly for the view of the mountains, ancient churches and Narikala fortress. But let's avoid the Iveria and Adjara hotels, which are a sad reminder of the refugees from Abkhazia, the Black Sea region that declared itself a republic.

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