The Italian masters of industrial minimalism have gone all the way this time. And a little more. Unimatic has collaborated with iconic Los Angeles boutique Maxfield to create a watch - the U3S-M, which is so black it absorbs light - and a significant chunk of your wallet.
There are watches you flaunt, and there are watches you wear because you understand design. Unimatic has been a quiet favorite for years for those who appreciate brutalist aesthetics and no-nonsense functionality. But their latest model, the Modello Tre U3S-M, created exclusively for Maxfield (yes, that boutique in LA where leather jackets cost more than your car), is not just a tool. It's a statement. And arguably the most expensive "ticket" to the world Unimatic so far.
Complete darkness (Stealth Mode: ON) – U3S-M
Let's look at the facts. This is a watch for people who wear Rick Owens and drive matte black cars. The watch is completely blacked-out. The steel case and bracelet are coated with a matte black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating. The dial? Matte black. The subdials? Black, with a snail pattern. The indexes? Glossy black.
Will you know what time it is in the middle of the night? Absolutely not. There is not a micron of luminescence on the dial. The hands are “wireframe”, and the chronograph seconds hand has even lost its characteristic “lollipop” at the end. Functionality is subordinate to aesthetics here. And let’s be honest – this watch is not about timekeeping, it’s about vibe. This is the most “stealth” watch the Italians have ever put together.
What's hiding under the hood?
To justify the price tag that will make many take a deep breath, Unimatic has spared no expense when it comes to the movement. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW510 BH b. This is an automatic chronograph movement with a 4Hz frequency and a 62-hour power reserve.
This is a serious machine. For comparison: when Unimatic used a similar movement in its first automatic chronograph earlier this year, the price was around $3,300 (with an optional leather strap). But this time, they've gone a step further.
Exclusivity price: $4,295
Here's where the hard part comes in. The price. $4,295.
If you're familiar with Unimatic, you know that their dive models (like the sold-out U1S-MD with Sellita SW200-1b movement) typically retail for around $1,500. So where does this jump come from?
The answer lies in two words: Maxfield and limited edition.
IOnly 30 pieces will be produced. Thirty. This is not mass production, this is a collector's “drop”. Maxfield in Los Angeles is not just a store; it is an institution that has been dictating what is “cool” since 1969. They sell things you don’t need but desperately want – from Japanese “streetwear” to vintage Hermes handbags. When Unimatic enters this space, the price no longer reflects just the sum of its components, but the entrance fee to an exclusive club.
Below the line: Unimatic U3S-M
The Unimatic U3S-M is beautiful, industrial, unreadable in the dark, and outrageously expensive for what it is. It's the definition of a luxury "tool" that will never see a real workshop.
The only part of the watch that isn't black is the sapphire crystal caseback, through which you can see the movement. Everything else is an exercise in minimalism. If you have $4,000 to spend and want a watch that screams "I know what good design is, and I don't like colors," then hurry. With only 30 pieces, it's probably too late.
For the rest of us? It remains a nice wallpaper on the phone.
